roof tiles from aluminium cans
You need: a lot of aluminum cans of the same size.
All kinds of remaining wood are made into the mold they will press in.
A couple of nails and a hammer4 screw and a drill-strong glove scissors this is an adaptation of the version from someone else I \'ve seen here, so thank you for giving me the inspiration to try.
The first thing to do is cut out the main parts from the aluminum tank you collect (
I found some in the bushes.
This reduces waste in the environment. .
Be sure to wear strong gloves when you do this, as sharp edges can be very dangerous.
I also trimmed the corners to make them safer.
You then need to fold the ends shown in the photo so you know how big the tiles will be.
To make it work, it is better to use the higher beverage cans of the same size.
For the bottom, once you see how big the tile is, find or cut a piece of wood of the same size as the main flat part of the tile.
Then nail a larger piece of wood on it, as shown in the second picture.
Make sure the nails you use don\'t come out of the other side because they pierce the jar when you press it.
The part in the center should be a little longer than the height of the jar so that it can be fully formed.
Important: make sure that the raised wood you fix on both parts is the same thickness.
I find that if they don\'t, it doesn\'t shape the tiles very well because it will lead to a bigger gap than you should have.
For the top, get a piece of wood with the same width as the Molded Tile.
This is important so that the two parts can be combined.
Then, get some flakes that fit the groove part of the tile, one on each side.
Because they are narrow, it is better to screw them up, because the nails may separate the wood.
These narrow sections need to be screwed to the edge of the wood shown to make sure that the wood for the last step is tightly placed between them.
I learned through the trial that you really need to keep the top and bottom as tight as possible so that the aluminum can be placed between them.
Otherwise, it won\'t bend well when you press them, it will only be round, not defined.
You can also use the narrow section at the top to determine where the last two pieces need to be placed.
As shown in the figure, these are the longer parts nailed to the base.
The second photo shows what it looks like after the two parts are completed.
You can see how they work with each other in the other two photos.
Then it\'s time to start pressing the tiles.
Once you have gone so far, it becomes very easy.
So all you need to do is take a piece of aluminum and put it on the bottom to make sure it\'s as symmetrical as possible.
Then simply place the top on it and press it down with your hands or feet.
It takes almost no pressure because it\'s too thin, so once you cut the jar open you can squeeze out a tile every 5 seconds!
My plan is to collect some cans whenever I have free time and then do another batch.
Of course, you need a lot of stuff to make any decent roof, so might want to spread it out because it\'s a bit boring and tedious to cut the can at once.
I haven\'t fixed them on anything yet, but they can be fixed with a nail gun or a small nail with a wide head.
Do this at the top of the tile so the elements don\'t see any holes.
As you can see in the last photo, they need to be overlapping and can be fixed on a wooden roof or on a frame suitable for tiles.
After completing the first line at the bottom, the next line needs to overlap with the first to stop any leaks.
Since the tiles are so bent, it is unlikely that the wind will bend them.
If you live in windy areas, the other option is to take a roll of long wires and fix them vertically on the tiles to prevent the wind from lifting them.
Thanks to others who have tried this method.
I have accepted what you have shown and adapted it for myself.
After making a lot of tiles and not being of any use, I realized that I still need a roof to place the terrace in my community garden, so I decided to do it with them.
It\'s big, I calculated it, I need 432 tiles!
So I collect more money, once I have a lot of money (around 250)
I started here.
For the roof frame, I used beams that were mostly removed from the tray and cut them so that they could be combined in the form of vertices and cut some pieces from the corner, at the moment, it\'s all together.
The distance through the metal panels is 174 cm and I have 100 cm beams, so I found the angel I needed to put them together, which is 20 °, cutting off the ends of the beams and corners, this will be fixed later.
You can see how it fits into the framework.
The beams are fixed together with truss, which is great for placing things side by side.
One is needed on each side.
I found the sides of some baby cribs that I thought would be useful at some point, I removed all the wooden strips and found the other thin wood, and cut them into the same length (60cm).
I drilled holes at each end of the Batten so that when they were nailed to the beam, the two ends would not be separated.
The nails I use are about 4 cm long enough to stop them from coming out easily.
Since the tiles are fairly small, I have to measure the distance between the slats by 12 cm so that they can overlap enough.
I first fixed them on two sets of beams and put them on the gazebo.
They were well installed so I made other beams later.
Doing so means it can be done in sections and it will be much easier if you can do it yourself with just a little help.
I put the three parts of the roof frame up first, because I have enough tiles to cover most of them, so I went on.
In order to fix the beam to a metal panel, I cut an old bicycle inner tube and nailed it to it because it needed something to bend the pole.
You can make a piece of metal, but I think that\'s enough.
Since the tiles are made of very thin metal, it is easy to nail the tiles with a nail gun.
First of all, you should start at the bottom of the outside corner and nail the first one on the slat at the bottom.
I put the staples at the top of the flat section, one on each side, covering one to the side until the first ground floor is filled.
Then you move up to the next line, but this time, nail to the bottom of the tile.
In this way, it will not rise in the wind, nor will it let the rain come in.
If the tiles don\'t sit comfortably in the connection, put more staples.
At the end of the roof, on the outside beam, you can bend the tiles to the edge and nail them to the side to avoid and leak.
Its underside will turn into a huge mosaic of many colors, but since they are mostly cans thrown away by a large number of drinkers, it looks a bit like an advertisement for strong beer and cider!
The tricky point is how to add them to the top of the vertex.
This is because even (now, flat)
The tiles are still covered and the rain can pass through the sides.
In the photo, you can see that I covered these connections with plastic tape, but I quickly found them falling off again in the sun.
Instead, what I\'m going to do is cut long tarps with the same width as those flat tiles and nail them on top.
This should solve the problem, but please comment if you have other ideas.
Anyway, I put all my tiles on and finished about 3/4 of them.
I was hesitant to test it with a hose because after all this work I expected it to fail. . . . But it didn\'t!
There is no water pass at all, so I look forward to finishing the rest of the work.
The total cost of this roof is nothing because I have all the materials anyway.
Well, you may need to buy some staples, but it\'s about £ 2 pounds!